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Thermador Appliances have been at the forefront of cooking technology for over 70 years. Their appliances combine classic design with state of the art performance to satisfy the most demanding culinary enthusiasts.
Since they introduced the first built in Thermador wall oven nearly 50 years ago, to the revolutionary Thermador gas cook tops with the patented Star Burner, their innovations have helped to transform the kitchen from a mere workplace into the entertaining and social center of the modern American home. A Thermador kitchen ignites creativity, stirs the soul, and inspires the passion of those who have a true love for fine cooking. Maybe it’s their classic American craftsmanship or their unique style. Perhaps it’s the state of the art functionality of new products such as the new Freedom Collection refrigeration system, which features customizable columns for the ultimate in design flexibility. Whatever the reason, the attraction is undeniable. Thermador has been empowering the kitchen enthusiast for 75 years. Here are some of the fine products that Thermador offers.
If your refrigerator is not cooling properly, there are a number of potential causes. First, start by checking that the condenser coils are not dirty. These coils are typically located either behind or under the refrigerator and are easily accessible. You can use a vacuum cleaner to suck up as much debris and dust as you can. And then you can use a cloth to wipe off any remaining dirt. Cleaning your condenser coils regularly is important because their function is to circulate coolant, and disperse any heat away from the appliance.
If your condenser coils are clean and you’re still experiencing difficulties with the fridge temperature, you’ll then want to check to see if the evaporator fan motor is working. This component helps circulate cool air throughout the appliance. To check your fan, you can try listening to see if any strange noises are coming from the motor. If you hear any grinding or ticking noises, it’s usually a clear indication that your fan isn’t working properly.
Another culprit of a refrigerator failing to cool is the condenser fan motor being defective. To access this fan, refer to your owner’s manual to locate the component. Then, once you’ve accessed it, try spinning the fan blades by hand. If they turn smoothly, then the motor is fine, but if they offer resistance, then a bearing or the motor is likely defective. While you’re there, check if there are chunks of pet hair, dirt or debris blocking the fan. If you do see hair and debris, make sure to clean it off. The purpose of the condenser fan is to keep both the compressor and the condenser coils cool. It’s therefore essential in keeping the refrigerator itself cool.
To determine if the water supply tube is frozen, disconnect the tube at the bottom of the door and blow air through it. If air does not pass through, this indicates that the water supply tube is frozen. If the water supply tube is frozen, thaw it out. In addition, ensure that the freezer is kept at the proper temperature. The freezer temperature should be kept from 0-10 degrees Fahrenheit. If the freezer is too cold, the water line may freeze.
The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if the water pressure is too low, the water valve will not open. The valve requires at least 20psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If the water inlet valve does not have continuity, replace it.
The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.
Fault with the electronics detected in the self-test.
Solution:Faults can only be eliminated by an experienced engineer.
Internal logic failure; cancel key supervision. Sounds alarm and resets to non-cook mode
Solution:Replace the electronic range control (also called clock or ERC)
Internal logic failure (monitoring function). Sounds alarm and inhibits cook modes
Solution:Replace the electronic range control (also called clock or ERC)
Temperature runaway detected (Bake/Broil: 600 - 700 F; Clean: 930 - 1000 degrees F). Sounds alarm and resets to non-cook mode. Check relay board for stuck contacts. Check oven temperature sensor for normal room temperature resistance (1085-1097 ohms at 75 degrees F). Check sensor wiring connectors for a loose or high resistance connection. Check electronic range control (also called clock or ERC) functions
Solution:Replace relay board if necessary. Replace oven temperature sensor if other components check normal. If failure repeats, replace electronic range control (also called clock or ERC)
Open circuit detected; oven temperature sensor. Check sensor for normal room temperature resistance (1085-1097 ohms at 75 degrees F). Check wires and connections between electronic range control (also called clock or ERC) and oven temperature sensor
Solution:Replace sensor if other components check normal. Replace electronic range control (also called clock or ERC) if fail code reoccurs
Short circuit detected; oven temperature sensor. Check sensor for normal room temperature resistance (1085-1097 ohms at 75 degrees F). Check wires between electronic range control (also called clock or ERC) and sensor.
Solution:Replace sensor if other components check normal. Replace electronic range control (also called clock or ERC) if fail code reoccurs
Function key shorted for over 16 seconds. Check for something pressing a key or preventing normal release of the key
Solution:Replace electronic range control (also called clock or ERC) if other components check normal
Internal logic failure; calibration. Alarm sounds and resets to non-cook mode. Check oven temperature sensor for normal room temperature resistance (1085-1097 ohms at 75 F). Check wires and connections between electronic range control (also called clock or ERC) and oven temperature sensor
Solution:Replace electronic range control (also called clock or ERC) and oven temperature sensor if other components check normal
Internal logic failure; door latch supervision. Alarm sounds and resets to non-cook mode. If door is locked due to clean temperatures, disconnect power until door can be unlocked
Solution:Replace the electronic range control (also called clock or ERC)
Bake & Broil relay drives active simultaneously. Check relay board for damage: trace E6 to K2 & K3, and burned contacts K3 & K4
Solution:Replace electronic range control (also called clock or ERC). Replace relay board if necessary
No power to electronic range control (also called clock or ERC). Check oven light and cooktop dial lights (powered by L2 & L1, respectively). Check relay board transformer primary, E1 to E2 (140 ohms typical). If the transformer internal fuse is still OK, check output voltages, pins 9 - 8 (3.2 v.a.c.) and 7 - 6 (21 v.a.c.). Check clock functions after replacing relay board
Solution:If relay board transformer open (E1 to E2), replace relay board. If still no clock functions replace electronic range control (also called clock or ERC)